Stockholm and Copenhagen tend to hog the spotlight when we think about Scandinavian cities. Their fashion weeks are major players on the global stage and both cities are huge exporters in the worlds of interior and industrial design. Oslo, on the other hand, is something like a younger sibling to these two capitals. Some would call it a layover city (Norwegian Air is based there), but this reputation is entirely unfair. The city’s creative communities are percolating, staking their own claim, and finding their own voice alongside the better-known Scandinavian cities. There is an emphasis on craft, tradition, and authenticity that you won’t find anywhere else in Scandinavia.
No neighborhood better embodies Oslo’s coming-of-age than Grünerløkka, a neatly encapsulated couple of square blocks with a name that might scare of anglophones—it’s pronounced GROO-ner-loh-kuh—but with an attitude and energy that is reminiscent of New York’s Williamsburg or Bushwick, Montreal’s Mile End, or even Los Angeles’s Silver Lake. As with so many equivalent neighborhoods around the world, it was once a haven for artists and creatives, including Oslo’s most famous painter Edvard Munch, but today is the heart of the city’s food, coffee, mixology, and shopping scenes. Simply put, Grünerløkka is where you want to be next time you’re in Norway—and is seriously making the case for calling Oslo anything but a layover city.
Here, a few handpicked selections of where to shop, eat, and explore:
Where to ShopEnsemble
When you think painfully cool Scandinavian boutique, you’re thinking of Ensemble. The owner Marte Økelsrud is a former stylist and has an excellent eye for showcasing Scandinavian brands alongside international favorites.
HaslaWhile this jewelry brand definitely has a Scandinavian, pure aesthetic, it is distinctly inspired by Norwegian nature, and is produced in Norway’s Setesdal valley, a region known for rich handicraft traditions.
Velouria VintageVintage lovers will fall in love with this unmissable shop. You might have to do a bit of digging, but you are sure to find treasures: Prada, Chanel, and Hermes; silk shirts from the 1960s; glittery party dresses from the 1980s; just-right vintage Levi’s; and timeworn leather cowboy boots.
DapperEven if shopping for menswear isn’t on your must-do list, Dapper is worth a visit. This men’s store takes the one-stop concept shop idea to new heights by combining menswear offerings with a barber shop and bike shop. Pick up a new backpack, trim your beard, then ride your bike into the sunset—so Scandinavian it hurts.
Fransk BazarOpened by a French expat, this antique shop has a unique mishmash of high-end trinkets, gadgets, and objets collected from all over Europe.
Where To DrinkTim Wendelboe Rumor has it this was Europe’s first third wave coffee shop. With an obsessive-compulsive emphasis on picking the best beans from the best origins and roasting them to perfection, this could easily be one of the best cups of joe we’ve ever tried.
OsloveloIt’s no secret that Norwegians love the outdoors, so the fact that the neighborhood’s coziest bar and coffee house doubles as a bike repair shop should come as no surprise—and in the winter they’ll even tune your skis while you have a drink.
Territoriet
This is the spot for both serious and aspiring oenophiles. The friendly, extremely knowledgable staff will guide you through an encyclopedic wine list, make selections based on your preferences, and even teach you how to open the bottle properly.
Syng
Perhaps the neighborhood’s favorite dive, Syng is where you go to linger over drinks all night with friends. Some nights, the bar will screen musical movies, and sing-a-longs are encouraged. Sitting outside on the terrace here and trying your hand at some karaoke is a tradition, especially on the summer solstice.
Bettola Oslo’s coolest come here to get their cocktail fix. Come for the cool vintage interior, but stay for the cocktail menu—the Aperol spritz is legendary.
Where To Eat
Ostebutikken
An intimate six-table bistro where the name of the game is cheese. Start off with a plate of the market’s latest offerings—have your server pick—then warm up with a hearty serving of the homemade cassoulet.
DelicatessenIf you want to try your hand at running into a Norwegian celebrity (like Josefine Pettersen from the hit show Skam), this is the place to do it. They don’t take reservations, so don’t be put off by a bit of a wait. Once you snag a table the tapas are well worth it, and it’s the perfect place to pout over some serrano ham and twelve-month manchego with a glass of cava.
TxotxA new hot spot, the emphasis here is on Basque-style pintxos and shared plates, like succulent grilled oysters or salty bacalao.
MunchiesA hearty lunch is necessary in Oslo, and whether you’re staving off the cold or recovering after a long night out, the burger with sweet potato fries at Munchies will do the trick.
Bass OsloThe place to come for your Scandinavian fix. The food here is as pure and potent as its minimalist interior—locals love the cured duck with pickled fennel and the asparagus with goat cheese cream, brown butter, and hazelnuts.