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The Conquistadors could scarcely believe what they were seeing when they arrived at Tulum in 1518. A seemingly vast and impenetrable city — its name simply translates as “wall” — sitting atop a cliff, it would go on to resist Spanish occupation for seven decades. Centuries later, a trip to Tulum still has the capacity to leave new visitors awestruck; not only are those Mayan ruins remarkably well preserved, they’re situated above one of Latin America’s most picture-perfect beaches.
The ruins, stirring shoreline and proximity of Cancun airport have combined to make Tulum one of Mexico’s biggest tourist draws. Within a day’s reach from here there are Unesco world heritage sites, modern cities, world-class watersports and some of the country’s very best and most decadent hotels. Whether you’ve come to learn about the region’s history, eat your bodyweight in fish tacos, or explore the secrets of the cenotes, there’s no chance you’ll be bored. Let the spring-breakers have Cancun — the smart money is down here on what’s known as the Riviera Maya.
What to do
Tulum town may not serve as much more than a base, but use it as that and you’ll find there are plenty of places in easy reach that will blow your mind. On the coast, the Mayan ruins feel genuinely unmissable. Built about 800 years ago, they’re endlessly photogenic, even for those incurious about indigenous history. Further inland, Coba* is an archaeological site from the same era but takes the form of a spectacular Mayan pyramid locked in the green embrace of the Yucatan jungle.
On the road from Cancun, Playa del Carmen looks out to the striking island of Cozumel. All three locations are a good deal more American in their tourism offers, but Cozumel* is especially well-loved by divers and those keen to learn. If the prospect of diving with carnivorous sharks feels daunting, head to Isla Mujeres* in the summer months to snorkel with their toothless cousins, the migratory whale sharks.
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If you don’t fancy getting in the sea at all, Tulum’s cenotes (water-filled caves or sinkholes) provide an otherworldly opportunity to dive and swim in impossibly clear freshwater. There may not be the wildlife, or buoyancy, of being in the ocean, but in places such as Dos Ojos* there’s a good chance you’ll have never experienced better visibility.
When it comes to food and drink, unless you’ve spent a significant amount of time in Mexico, there’s a good chance the cuisine you’re familiar with is actually American-influenced Tex Mex. Along the Riviera Maya you can find that sort of thing, but it’d be a mistake to avoid real Yucutean dishes while you’re there. Beach bars and pop-ups sell all manner of slow-cooked and marinated meat, either served in tacos or with rice. Conchita (pulled pork) and relleno negro (shredded turkey stew) are both musts. Look out for anywhere selling grilled dorado (also known as dolphin fish or mahi mahi) and be sure to try seafood tacos when the chance inevitably arises.
In the hotel zone, while there’s still plenty of excellent Mexican cuisine, the high-end hotel restaurants can of course cater for almost any dietary requirement or preference and, in general, present both more of an international selection and much higher prices.
Where to stay
While Tulum’s drag is largely a hectic stretch filled with budget hotels and bars, there are a couple of reasonable options away from the sumptuous coast. Hotel Tiki Tiki* is perhaps the best affordable option in the region and offers bikes, scooters and tuk-tuks to make up for its less perfect location.
Down on the coast, vast investment has seen some of Latin America’s finest hotels compete for real estate on the sandy stretches of beach road between the Tulum ruins and the stirring Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve. Known as the hotel zone, it has everything from eco-lodges to sprawling haciendas, from romantic boutique hotels to opulent resorts. Deep pockets are required for most of these properties, but the rewards are yoga classes during outrageously pretty sunrises, palm thatch roofed cabins and, in some cases, private beaches. Hotel Esencia*, the former holiday home of an Italian duchess, might be the pick of the bunch.
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Further up the coast towards Cancun, Playa Del Carmen* has larger resort-style hotels and beach clubs, many of which can host hundreds of guests. Those looking for a slice of hedonism while on the Yucatan Peninsula usually base themselves here. Meanwhile, just across the water, the island of Cozumel is mostly frequented by American tourists and has everything from fishing excursions to diving classes and kite-surfing.
Don’t miss
The New Seven Wonders list was officially unveiled in 2007 and many Europeans raised an eyebrow at the name Chichen Itza* appearing — it seemed an obscure choice compared to the Great Wall of China or the Taj Mahal. Many of them had simply not laid eyes on this sensational pre-Columbian city a two-hour drive northwest from Tulum.
By the time it was conquered by the Spanish in the 1500s, this once mighty city had already been largely abandoned. It’s incredibly well-preserved for a Mayan site and spent a couple of centuries as nothing much more than a cattle ranch. That changed in the mid-1800s with the arrival of writers, photographers and, most importantly, archaeologists. Today, its pyramidal structures, sacred cenotes and long-lost temples attract around two million visitors a year and yet it’s still possible to get a sense of what an impressive place it must have been in its pomp. With the right guide and a parasol, it makes for a fascinating day trip in-land while staying in Tulum.
When to visit
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While the Riviera Maya is rarely struck directly by hurricanes, they are still possible. The season for the most tumultuous weather is in October, but it can be unsettled any time from May; the most popular time to visit is between December and April.
FAQs
Do I need to know Spanish?
English is widely spoken around the region, but knowing a bit of Spanish is of course useful, appreciated and polite.
Where should I fly to?
Cancun International Airport serves most of the Yucatan Peninsula and lies approximately 75 miles and a 90-minute transfer away from Tulum.
Currency Mexican pesos.
Take me there
Inspired to visit Tulum but yet to book your trip? Here are the best packages from Virgin Holidays* and Tui*.
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