Going from Syracuse towards the southeasternmost point of Sicily, between Noto and the old village of Marzamemi, you will find the natural oasis of Vendicari. The first thing that comes to mind to describe it is: huge. It stretches out over 1,300 or so hectares, which are mostly swamps hosting the most various life forms.
Follow me into this easily accessible sanctuary of nature, just 8 km away from Noto.
Table of contents- Vendicari, a paradise for biodiversity
- A hiking trail between the swamps and the Mediterranean sea
- The Tonnara and the vestiges of a long-lasting human occupation
- What to take on your trip and how to find your way in the Vendicari Reserve
Vendicari, a paradise for biodiversity
Indeed, when they notice a stretch of water from the sky throughout their long trip, they land to rest, eat and breed. Hence the countless beautiful specimens of the most various species that can be observed in the old salt marshes of Vendicari. The reserve offers different vantage points with freshly built cabins for ornithologists.
Each year, entire colonies of birds choose the reserve as a resting place: silts, coots, mallards, pink flamingoes, grey herons, spoonbills, egrets, storks and small wading birds such as sandpipers, plovers, least sandpipers and redshanks.
As you go along the well kept and shaped pathways of the reserve, you might get lucky and come across toads, leopard snakes (the most beautiful snake of Europe), swamp tortoises, rabbits, foxes, hedgehogs and porcupines. And each summer, hundreds of huge turtles called Caretta Caretta coming from the sea choose these beaches to lay their eggs.
Needless to say that even here, the sea is in a protected area. Its turquoise waters full of fishes and rich with an exceptional biodiversity have nothing to envy to the Caribbean sea, as far as beauty is concerned.
A hiking trail between the swamps and the Mediterranean sea
The Vendicari Nature Reserve was created in 1984 but was not open to visitors before 1989. The forest crew takes full charge of the upkeep and I have to admit that they do a great job: they keep an eye on everything and the pathways are perfectly arranged, so as to prevent any absent-minded visitor from leaving the authorized trails.
We must bear in mind that the reserve is both a resting place and a shelter for migratory birds which have to face a long and wearing journey. This is why they must be protected, cared for and never disturbed.
All around there are beaches, dunes and untouched cliffs. Walking on the pathways of the reserve means getting entirely immersed in nature. What strikes me the most there is the sound of the waves, as well as the vestiges of the old tonnara far off in the distance.
The Tonnara and the vestiges of a long-lasting human occupation
Vendicari also offers interesting historical prospects: the old tuna fishery of the 19th century which has been working for millennia, the Swabian Tower which was used to keep an eye over the sea and spot potential enemies, the small Byzantine Church and the vestiges of the Greek town of Eloro delimiting the northern part of the reserve.
The human history of Vendicari is also important: the town once was a major landing place for the Greeks who used to transform the tuna they were fishing in front of the town, in the waters abounding in fish.
But the architectural core is still the Tonnara, which has been freshly renovated. Its high chimney and the columns which used to support its structure are perfectly well-preserved, which gives an idea of how tall it was and how many workers used to be there every day.
What to take on your trip and how to find your way in the Vendicari Reserve
Walking on the pathways is not difficult at all and no particular equipment or clothes are required. But we are in a damp and swampy area, full of insects and mosquitoes. That is why I strongly advise you to take a repellent spray with you, just in case.
A few meters before the entry of the reserve, there are two places in the middle of the vegetation where you can have a cool drink during the hot summer days. You will also get free admission to the beach within the reserve.
Past the entrance, use a short way. At the end of it, you will find a wooden footbridge leading straight to the natural beach of Vendicari. The coast is sandy and the shore as well as the first meters of seabed are covered by posidonias, but the sea gets crystalline just after, and the seabed is clear.
Going further north, you find a mostly rocky area where the sea floor gets slightly deeper and particularly appropriate for free diving. And of course, you can have a break on the sand of the splendid creek of Cala Mosche.
The reserve is open all year round, you can access for free and the landscape is never the same depending on the period of the year when you go there.
The best periods of the year for birdwatching are fall and spring. And those who want to come during summer will also enjoy the bewitching sea, the calm and hot waters.
Every time I go to Vendicari, I wait for sunset time and enjoy the show, standing in the middle of the old tonnara’s vestiges. It is also the time of the year when the big pink flamingoes get back to their temporary shelter.
Vendicari is a spot that you must enjoy properly; many life forms live there in harmony and men sure can enjoy it too. But for once he is not first in life’s order of importance.
Indeed, you have to abide by the rules of the reserve: you must park you car outside the main door, in a guarded parking lot and for which you have to pay just during summer.
- Leaving the pathway is forbidden
- Disturbing animals is forbidden
- Uprooting plants is forbidden
- Pets are not allowed
In a nutshell, I think common sense is all you need: stand on the tips of your toes and be humble to enjoy this natural gem, framed by an unforgettable sea.
