From where to go for sunset drinks to the best hotels to seek out, these are the Tulum spots where Alison Loehnis hangs out.
When did you first visit Tulum?
‘I’ve been visiting Mexico for a long time, but I didn’t discover Tulum until a friend suggested it as a family getaway. Everything about it, from the fabulous food to the white sand, cenotes, Mayan ruins and jungle backdrop, was spectacular – I was sold. It has such a colourful combination of cultures. As soon as I get here I instantly feel myself disconnecting and unwinding.’
Where do you stay?
‘On our last trip, we took over a wonderful beach house next door to Hotel Esencia, which is on the coast about a 30-minute drive north of town. I liked the privacy of having our own place – and with the hotel in walking distance, we could easily stroll a few steps for supper if we wanted a change of scenery. Meanwhile, Be Tulum feels small and tucked away, but at the same time it has everything you need. With its seaside location, restaurants, spa and morning yoga sessions, it’s a brilliant base to relax and to explore.’
An ideal morning here?
‘I try to wake up early just before dawn – the sunrises on Tulum beach are the best in the world – and then go for my morning run or take a long swim. Before heading to breakfast I might swing by a café – such as The Real Coconut at the Sanará hotel, which makes its own almond milk – for a latte.’
Your favourite restaurants?
‘The crowd pleaser has to be Hartwood, a candle-lit, rustic-chic courtyard plating up seasonal produce from the open grill and wood-fired oven. It was set up by two ex-New Yorkers and uses sustainable practices, with the whole space powered by solar panels. Order the papaya empanadas. I also seek out more secluded spots, such as NU, which is hidden away in the jungle. The tables are set outside and shrimp and octopus are cooked right in front of you in the open kitchen. No matter where we are in Tulum, we like to try traditional Riviera Maya dishes, which are usually based on fresh fish and vegetables. We’ll often start with a ceviche – it’s like nothing you’ll get in London – followed by the catch of the day with rice. And we never forget pudding, and always pick tres leches sponge cake with fruit or homemade sorbet.’
And go-to places for drinks?
‘Posada Margherita is a dream. Last time we went, the owner, Alessandro Carrozzino, had an adorable puppy who we instantly fell in love with. They serve delicious pizza here – it might seem counter-intuitive to eat Italian in Tulum, especially when I could have Mexican food all day long, but the cooking is exceptional. The juice bar is a standout; it’s a go-to stop throughout the day as it’s right on the shore, and the fresh coconuts are a real hit with the kids. In the mornings, you might see Carrozzino preparing focaccia. After-hours, we go to Casa Malca, a beautiful art-filled space, for a mezcal Margarita – the perfect end to a day at the beach.’
Where is good for shopping?
‘The main road in Tulum is lined with local boutiques. A must-visit is Mr Blackbird, which specialises in hand-crafted jewellery, bags and shoes. I bought the nicest pair of rope sandals here. Natural Rough is another gem, filled with artisanal clothing and accessories, all of which have been ethically made. Mexico has a rich heritage of craftsmanship, and this store really fosters and promotes that. I also drop by Coqui Coqui, just outside Tulum in Cobá, for its candles and perfumes, which are now also available at Net-a-Porter.’
The best area to explore?
‘Nothing beats wild swimming. There are plenty of nearby cenotes for snorkelling – the water is so clear, it looks as if it’s been cut from glass. One highlight is the Gran Cenote, where you can swim in fresh water through caverns and spot the underwater columns of stalagmites and stalactites.’
Your favourite buildings?
‘Tulum is surrounded by the most incredible ancient architecture. There is so much to see, but the town’s Mayan ruins are not to be missed. The structure looks very dramatic against the Caribbean coast. There’s also Chichén Itzá, once the centre of the Mayan empire, about two hours away. My children have had so much fun learning about Mexico’s historic landmarks.’
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Any low-key corners?
‘Habitas at sundown. It’s slightly further away from the other main hotels in Tulum and feels so tranquil. If you have the urge to leave the coastal area, Casa Pueblo in town is a small, under-the-radar boutique stay, which is great for a change of pace. Wherever you go, the local community is so warm. Visitors are treated as if they were long-lost friends rather than passing travellers, so we always feel very at home.’
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