Review: Banyan Tree Sanya

If there was any doubt that Hainan has shed its unsavory reputation—originally as a place of exile and more recently as a magnet for Chinese mass tourism—this exquisite resort on Luhuitou Bay proves it. Its 49 villas, all with private pools, are set amid a man-made lagoon teeming with fish, long grasses, and bullfrogs, whose evening chorus is a magical experience. But every feature of the place is a pièce de résistance: the indoor-outdoor bathroom, with a sauna and a gigantic granite tub set in a black-tiled lotus pond; the two dramatically situated restaurants; the impeccable service; the graceful fusion of the contemporary with the traditional (such as shower spouts ingeniously constructed out of bamboo); and, of course, the spa. And you can indulge guilt-free—Banyan Tree is mindful of the environment and purchases many of the objects, fabrics, and furniture from local craftsmen (whose wares are also on sale at the Banyan Tree Gallery Sanya). When to go: November through early March, if you like it less hot and humid.