Day 1 - Hellismannaleid: Rjupnavellir to Afangagil
A spectacular, easy introduction to the story of the trek: rivers, waterfalls, ash plains, volcanoes and lava fields.
The Hellismannaleid is typically a three day hike covering 59 km (36 miles). It’s a quieter walk than most, one of the few wilderness walks left in Europe where you can go without seeing many people - or at least the one hiker who caught the same bus as we did indicated. He said he had walked in many places in Europe but this was one of his favourites because it remained isolated. Suffice to say he quickly scooted on ahead of us and we didn’t see anyone else for over a day! And isolated and wild it is!
The standard Day 1 is to hike 19 km to Afangagil. But our early bus arrived in Rjupnavellir around lunchtime, so we figured we wouldn’t reach Afangagil huts. Instead, we hiked partway (around 13 km) and wild camped outside the park boundary (no wild camping is allowed inside).
That meant we had a very long second day. To more easily spread the hike, we recommend slow hikers catch a later bus, stay at Rjupnavellir that evening and set off early the next morning.
The walk leaves the huts on a gentle track. Easy walking in perfect weather. My heart is pounding with anticipation and excitement.
A hint of things to come, with bare Burfell to the west.
The track is well signposted, with well-built stiles. After all we’ve heard about Iceland, we can hardly believe the weather. A light breeze, warm sunshine and puffy clouds!
The Ytri-Ranga river provides a restful soundtrack.
The colours of the soil, the greens of the vegetation, all so different to Australia’s olive tints and hazy blues.
First glimpse of ash plain - there will be plenty more! We have scarcely begun the walk and already there is a hint of the contrasts we are going to experience.
There is a network of tracks throughout this region and much of Iceland. You could spend a lifetime exploring just this tiny island.
Across the bridge to the eastern side of the Ytri-Ranga.
We ford several small side streams.
Crossing the first of Hekla's ash plain, with Hekla in the background.
The ash is not what we expected - much coarser, more like fine gravel - so different to the sandy red dust of the arid areas of Oz.
The starkness is astonishing. Such irony, that this beauty is partially due to deforestation.
Another stream to cross. The water is shallow and icy, the floor pebbly. Many people suggest neoprene booties, but we find harder-soled sandals more comfortable.
Moonscape!
The terrain is undulating but not steep. It’s the perfect start to a multiday hike!
Bizarre volcanic landforms, as if a dragon has pooped on the hillside.
Arctic thyme (Thymus praecox ssp. arcticus)
Descending steeply with wonderful views of Fossabrekkur…
A perfect spot to pause for a snack.
Artctic Riverbeauty (Chaemerion latifolium)
Skirting close to the river.
Flat plains, and then you suddenly come across a deep gorge with rushing water.
One more plain to cross - you can see the way markers stretching into the distance. It's already about 7.30pm.
As planned, we won’t quite make Afangagil Hut Campground - we’ve walked about 13 km today. But we are not yet in the national park so can wild camp. This is our only wild camp while in Iceland. It has been the best start to a walk imaginable, and we can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings!
But first, dinner. Bolognese from home – yum!