Our ‘Chambre de bonne’

In 1853 Baron Haussmann began his drastic modernization of Paris. The transformation of the crowded, dirty medieval city into a functional, monumental, hygienic modern capital, is responsible for the broad boulevards, grand facades and the endless straight lines that form the face of modern Paris.

Haussmann’s urban redevelopment of Paris is also responsible for the social affluence and decadence of the city center. Financed by lascivious private borrowing during a period of piratical capitalism and government regulation, Haussmann’s plan looked to cement class lines along the distinct physical lines of his city planning

The networking of the city center with the outlying suburbs via the expansive boulevards was for the benefit of the ruling class: it facilitated the movement of troops to smoother any post revolutionary shenanigans, prevented the erection of barricades across the streets and mapped and broadened the inner city trade routes of the bourgeoisie to precipitate commerce. Doing so required massive inner city destruction with one fifth of Paris streets destroyed and 350 000 working class displaced. And while the city center moved west towards the grand boulevards the working class followed the factories into the outlying suburbs of Paris – la banlieue.

However a special place was reserved for the lower class in the apartments of the wealthy. In the sixth floor attic space, one room self contained units, with a communal toilet in the hallway, housed the family servants and were named, la chambre de bonne, derived from the colloquial, satiric reference to the housemaid as “bonne à tout faire” – “a good all rounder.” The chambre de bonne is accessible only via service stairs in the back of the apartments shared courtyard, thus keeping the staff off the main staircase and out of the lift.

Millie and I now have the pleasure of occupying a chambre de bonne in the 9th arrondisment, and it feels only appropriate that undesirables such as myself are hidden in corner attic spaces away from the fur coats and diamonds. After our two month stint house sitting in one of the most desirable apartment buildings in Paris it is a harsh six floor hike back to reality.

A space barely made for one makes for an exciting family home. The toilet inspires claustrophobia and has a flush similar to that on the space shuttle. The slopping roof of the attic makes the legal required 9 m² feel closer to 7. And the painters working in the hallway are an unfortunate tone deaf 8am alarm clock.

However, It does not come without benefits. From the bed you look directly into the shower. The bed turns into a couch. We have a stunning view of the Sacre Coeur.  Most importantly it is rent free, a concurrent part of Millicent’s job.

The multi purpose living room/kitchen/bathroom/bedroom....

We are one block from the red light district and Moulin Rouge, which leaves an abundance of scumbags, leeches and tourists on our door step. However, upon crossing Boulevard de Clichy you are in one of the best preserved parts of medieval Paris filled with markets, bars and restaurants. It was and is still one of the most popular spots for sinking piss. Originally outside Parisian city limits and the tax on alcohol, the hill also housed a convent whose nuns made wine.

Huassmann’s reconstruction of Paris saw an ambivalent reception at the time. It was recognised as a piece of brilliant modern architecture and city planning but was also criticised for its suppression of the poor and the scandalous enrichment of the wealthy. Zola named a novel after the small part of Paris left for the working class – La Curee – which is the piece of the hunt thrown to the dogs.

Now Haussmann’s plan is revered for not only its architectural work but the balance between public and private funding of the development and his ability to drastically reconstruct and modernize and simultaneously preserve the medieval city. The approach taken to Paris by Haussmann was replicated in Brussels, Milan, Rome, Barcelona, Antwerp, Dresden, Chicago and Vienna.